Carlisle Mountaineering Club

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Meets Report December 2007

Just one meet to report for this newsletter, The Hangover Meet on December 1 st , which did not disappoint!

After a great night out at The Queens (thanks Jane) five hardy souls John Holden, Jane Metcalfe, Sue Greenwood, Phil Wilkinson and Malcolm Dunning met at the Penrith Wall car park at the unearthly hour of 9.30, all bright and bushy tailed, or so it seemed.

John had planned to “do” Pinnacle Ridge by the route described in the Scrambles guide but was led astray by Phil who insisted on going on to the lay-by at Deepdale Bridge. Poor John was now totally confused, wrong side of the hill and all that (the first signs of an accumulation of Unicorn bitter) so the baton was passed to Phil who led us off up untracked fell sides, by Aiken Crag up on to Trough Head and Birks.

Heading out over the moor on a faint trod we crossed the col into the top of Blind Cove and thence traversed round to the foot of Pinnacle Ridge. There being plenty of “atmosphere” about, the rock was quite wet and special care was needed on the rare smaller hold but we stuck mostly to the ridge until the crux, where the party split, Phil and Malc going over the top, whilst the rest escaped up the gully to the left.

Reunited at the top, in brief snow showers we headed off over the top of St Sunday and had lunch in the lee of the ridge before heading on to Deepdale Hause and back down the very impressive Deepdale to our starting point.

Well what a wonderful day out, the scenery was at its best for this time of the year with cloud developing and melting away around the tops all day, the Helvellyn range had a significant amount of snow, the fell sides were streaked with silver streams and Phil's route proved to be a real blinder, we didn't see another soul until we were about to drop down into Deepdale, and then only in the far distance back on St Sunday…….bet you wish you had got out of bed now!

Evening Meets

M eets report July/August 2007, The Monsoon Continues.

The weather in July and August disrupted many of the planned club meets, but having said that a flexible approach to venue and date means that we have managed to get out as a club, and it seems that folks have got out on an individual basis fairly regularly as well.

Tuesday July 3 rd found a good group at Shepherds on a beautiful evening, whilst the planned meet at Crag Lough on the Thursday did not go ahead until the following Tuesday when five folks turned up for a couple of routes each, with Hadrians Buttress proving to be very popular and John having a thought provoking moment on Great Chimney….a very “traditional” route.

Buckstone How on Thursday 12 th may or may not have happened, depending on the weather and availability of substitute meet leader Tony? Whereas the following week the meet rescheduled for Shepherds proved to be a good night out for those who could make it.

Sunday July 15 th saw Phil's Wasdale meet moved to Shepherds, where fun was had until rain stopped play, forcing an early icecream. There are a couple of pics of this meet on the website, along with Phil's report of the day.

John's meet based on Woden's Face was another postponed until the following Tuesday, which proved to be a lovely evening with a good turn out, three ropes on Woden's and Dennis, with Jackie in tow, headed up to do the classic “Bowderstone Pinnacle”, adding a bit of adventure to the night by descending the gully which the FRCC in their inimitable, understated way describe as “...not recommended for descent”.

On Sunday 29 th July meet leader, Tony Morley was swanning off down in Devon somewhere (lucky devil) so Joe Miller took charge of the Northumberland meet and with Julie, Craig and Joanne headed off to Great Wanney for a grand day out on this excellent looking, sandstone crag……. on the Saturday.

Ray was away on August 2 nd , so his meet at Lower Falcon was shifted to Black crag for yet another exciting night. Steve Broatch and John Watson got in an early ascent of “The Pinnacle”, Phil, John and Mike did the “Super Direct” whilst Joe and Julie doing the excellent “Pinnacle” route were severely impeded by a slow party in front. The usual traffic Jam formed on the pinnacle and by the time John had brought up Phil and Mike on the last pitch the light was fading fast, so a rope was dropped to Joe to assist on the top pitch. By the time Julie followed the light had more or less gone so there followed a long slow descent to the sacks, then down through the woods by the light of a mobile phone screen, finally arriving at the cars at 11.50….so no pub tonight then! Some latecomers just got in a bit of practice on the lower rocks.

9 th August found a select band of John Holden, John Watson and Mike Horley at the planned venue of Raven Crag, Walthwaite, getting just one route done, the excellent, but unimaginatively named, Route 2.

The middle of August proved a wash out so sadly Crag Lough did not happen (Dennis, John and Jackie did however have a pleasant walk opposite, then back over the crags) but the following Thursday, 23 rd there was a welcome sighting of the very rare Tony Morley at Shepherds, apparently “smoothing” his way up the excellent “True North”, even Dennis was impressed with his style!

On Tuesday 28 th August , Dennis, Craig and Jackie, Phil W and John H managed to grab a route each at Peel Crag before the rain came to frustratingly make the rock just wet enough to be uncomfortable. On the walk back to the car the sun came out briefly and the crag looked magnificent lit by the evening sun, with a bright rainbow arching up above…and I left my camera in the car!

And finally, for the evening meets, Armathwaite on the 30 th August was well attended, Alan teaming up with Helen, Phil W with Dave Greenwood and John with Jackie. Dave was delighted with his ascent, after Phil, of the classic “Flasherman”, as were Joe and Julie, in spite of a slip for Julie on the top moves. Phil and then John ended the night by top roping “Erection”, HVS 5a, agreeing it's a fine route ……some said it was a steam train on the Carlisle to Settle line….but it was only John puffing his way up the top wall!

As I write this the weather, which this morning forced the cancellation of Alan's Yorkshire Grit meet , has begun to improve so maybe we will manage to get out for the last of the official evening meets on Thursday 6 th September at Headend Quarry , you really should try to get to this one if only for the views over the Solway Firth, the climbing has its merits to.

Weekend Meets to Come

The Scotland weekend of 14 th -16 th September , at Lagangarbh, is fully booked! I will be cooking a Chilli for the Saturday evening meal so it would be good if you could call me if you are vegetarian, so I can get the quantities of bean and beef sorted. Joe Miller has kindly offered to do apple pie for afters so bring along plenty of beer and wine and a healthy appetite.

I have two very eager reserves for this meet so, if you feel that you cannot make it please let me know as soon as possible….and you may be able to get your money back.

Don't forget the following Sunday meets and NB the changes* to dates and venue

*October 7th Yorkshire Grit, with Alan Greig       01228 674585

October 14 th Lakes Meet, contact John Holden       01768 863565

October 28 th * Yorkshire Limestone with Sue and Dave G'     01228 596912

NEXT MONTH

Look out for next months newsletter as it will contain details of this years Winter meets and I will be taking bookings once the newsletter has gone out….if the old wives tale about lots of berries and hard winters is true we should have a real stonker this year….anyone care to” open a book”.

NEXT YEAR

If you have a favourite crag, or just one I have missed out this year, please give me a call so I can perhaps include it in the plans for next year. Also for future newsletters, if you have digital photo's of meets please send them to me at theotherjohnholden@googlemail.com and I will try to include them in the meets reports.

Wasdale Meet 15th July

An inclement forecast and a long drive helped put off the destination. Borrowdale came up as the safe option and Shepherds saved the day. Joe and parner accompanied by John took off up Brown Slabs but were hindered by a group abseiling and hogging the crag. Phil, with sons Michael and John (8) took the Direct Route and followed up with the Ordinary Route escaping a serious knitting problem at the top using the well known local defense manoeuvre (Get out of the way, I know what I'm doing!). Joe decide Little Chamonix would be better but they were held up for an hour half way up and eventually abbed off. By mid afternoon the rain was coming in so off for an early ice cream.

PEAKS MEET MAY 25th -28th

Friday

An early getaway to beat the poor forecast for the weekend saw Sue and myself enjoying steep limestone at Ravensdale; “Ploy” VS 4c,4b,4c worth the drive down on its own! Elliot and his brother in law Craig also early arrivals at Thorpe Farm, having had a warm up on Stanage. By the late evening all ten of us were comfortably installed ready for tomorrow`s action.

Saturday

Stanage:overcast, coldish but plenty of routes to keep us warm. Dave pulled out all the stops to struggle up Black Hawk Crack while Dennis nimbly partnered Sue up many (polished at the start) classic routes. Craig got off to a flying start to his Trad climbing career and shot through the grades with Elliot reeling in his wake, the grit really working its magic. There was no doubt; he was the star of the day. (Dennis does not count because he is always the star! Editor`s comment)Ray meanwhile looked after Joe, Julie and John Watson squaring up to Narrow Buttress among others. A brief sprinkling of rain coincided with the arrival of Alan from his bouldering escapade at the plantation, adding considerable weight to the leading department,eg. Inverted V etc. The end of the day and all were either on or below Missippi Buttress with the Direct route seeing 3 teams enjoying the best VS at Stanage.

Marnus arrived too late to join us at the crag(car trouble) but made up for it with his lively chat at supper about the Skye Epic (see Joe`s story)

Sunday

Cold, windy, rain….a pleasant walk round Cheedale and then in the afternoon, a trip to the “Edge” in Sheffield was the best option and Marnus received a Master Class. All good fun.

Monday

A gradual depletion of the team with folk going their own way, left 5 heading for Yorkshire to escape the dismal weather. 3 routes were possible on the bolted limestone at Robin Proctor Scar until at 4.30 the showers returned, catching Ray on Yellow Fever E1, thankful for a rope for once. The climbing then halted! Still what we lost in climbing terms was more than made up for by a very sociable meet. Jordan next year!!

Phil Wilkinson

Wales Meet; Nant Peris;Ceunant Hutl June 15 th -17 th

Attended by an enthusiastic (self-proclaimed) elite: Jo, Malcolm, Phil W, Dave and Sue. Jo and Malcolm even managed a slightly loose multi-pitch on the way there. The forecast was grim but optimism as usual was rewarded. We had 2 splendid days as long as we kept away from Nant Peris! Tremadog on Saturday saw ascents of Christmas Curry, Valerie`s Rib, Merlin and One Foot in the Clouds, ably led by either Jo or Phil, (with good moral support from Malcolm for Sue when she considered being feeble). We

just escaped the end of the day drizzle. Sunday-we either stormed up “Direct” on Milestone Butress and then scrambled up the North Face of Tryfan to bright sun at the top or eagerly seized the big jugs and ledges of Pulpit Route, a welcome change from the greater demands of Tremadog, especially carrying sacks. Altogether, another excellent weekend.

Footnote to John`s Report

Meets Report, February 2007.

The tropical weather which brought about an end to the hope of winter conditions in January had continued into February, with just a short respite of light snow and some ice, but members have been out on The Fells getting in a bit of rock action on both low lying and high crags in glorious sunshine.

Get those heels down, John!

Feb 11 th Ray's Lakes Meet , came just a day too late to catch the good ice so the decision was taken in a warm and wet Borrowdale to head up to Doves Nest to explore the subterranean delights on offer there. Following an exploration of the chimneys and caves the group of four scrambled up to the top of the ridge and along by Doves Nest Slabs to the col above Langstrath, over some patches of wet snow. From the col a small column of ice was spotted further up over Langstrath so a quick traverse across was followed by some top rope fun on this short, but steep and thin fall of ice. Ray made a neat and delicate ascent of a fragile looking chandelier before stripping the route and heading off for the steep descent down by the side of Combe Gill itself.

Glen Coe 23-25 th Feb.

An almost full compliment of 15 arrived through Friday afternoon and evening, most cooking in house but a few enjoyed the food at The Clachaig Inn, being joined later by most of the others for the odd jar or two and entertainment in the form of a local Scottish Cajun rock band. Sadly there was little promise of good conditions, the temperatures had risen guaranteeing above freezing temperatures even on The Ben.

Sue headed off up The ZigZags into Coire Nan Lochan with a visiting fellow Rjukan veteran, putting up a direct line on wet and slape rock….arriving back, uncharacteristically, in the light! Meanwhile the final members, Mike and Suzanne had a pleasant day popping up The Devils Staircase to traverse the hills around the top of the glen.

Saturday night at the Clachaig turned into a good evening, with several folks enjoying the visiting band, The Ghosties.

Sunday morning dawned even warmer and wetter than the Saturday so nearly everyone wimped out of another wet day in the hills. Steve, Tony and Dave hit the “rock” wall at The Ice Factor, working hard to get the cost down below £0.90p per route, meanwhile Dan, Pete, t'other Dave and John booked two hours of fun on the ice wall. Considering that Dave and Pete had never handle a pair of axes before they both did well, getting pumped arms towards the end of the session. John and Dan, a bit more used to hanging on leashes just managed to get singing calves on the last route of the day, getting the cost down to only £2.92 per route! Everyone had a good time.

Jane, her son Simon and Joe headed down to Callander for a bit of ornithology, apparently spotting the “golden eyed tree duck” they had gone to see, then took in the spectacular Bracklinn Falls before heading home via Edinburgh.

Sue and Dave Greenwood were the only real mountaineers amongst us, heading back into the hills to top out on The Pap of Glencoe, you know….the one you always say “I must go up there one day”, as you fly past on your way to The Ben.

March Meets

Keep your fingers crossed for a bit of late winter, which we seem to have enjoyed for the last 2-3 years.

Sunday 11 th March is another Lakes meet, contact Tony Morley, 01228 524767 near the day for “the plan”.

THE FINAL WINTER MEET

MARCH 23 RD TO 25 TH THE LITTLE HOUSES, ROY BRIDGE. We have booked 24 places in three lodges. As always handy for Craeg Meagaidh, Aonach Mor and The Ben…..and the pub up in the village. COST £20-00.

Meet now fully booked! You can still go but you will have to camp or kip in the car!

SPRING / SUMMER MEETS

We will be taking bookings for the May Day and Spring Bank Holiday weekends following the March Meets report, so keep your eyes open for that little brown envelope and keep your cheque book handy.

John Holden

Meets Secretary

Tel. 01768 863565

Meets Report December 2006

Only the one meet to report this time, there was a good turn out for the Boxing Day, Blencathra meet. I'm sure that most folks set off resigned to the prospect of mist and cloud all the way to the top, which only seemed to be more certain as we climbed into dense, and now freezing fog.

There was rime on the grass and the engineered parts of the path were glassy with ice (almost got excited with the prospect of ice action later in the week!) so most folk kept to the much safer grass. Approaching the shoulder of Scales Fell the mist began to clear and by the time we reached the top of the Doddick Fell we were out in glorious sunshine above an ocean of slowly moving fog, with all the high fells standing out like islands.

The sun streaming over the ridge meant that all those who knew to look would have enjoyed their own Broken Spectre on the mist down over Scales Tarn.

From the summit it was like looking down on an immense river with the “water” building up on the windward side of the ridges then steaming over to form “stopper” waves on the downstream side….fantastic.

It seems that most folk ignored my faux pass re the pub, turning up as usual at the Horse and Farrier, not as I had written, the Salutation (Thanks Martin for pointing out the error).

MEETS REPORT October 2006

Not a vast lot to report this month, just the two club meets……but what good ones!

Lagangarbh went well with John and Dennis arriving first at about 6.30, followed by Sue, Dave, Jackie and Phil and finally Tony and Dave, who arrived, unpacked and shot off to The Kinghouse for a quickie. Sadly Ian and Pete couldn't make it. The accommodation was pretty good with an excellent kitchen and comfortable lounge, a couple of decent loos/washrooms and an adequate shower downstairs and two good rooms with alpine style bunks upstairs.

Saturday dawned bright but with mist and cloud on the tops, which burnt off well by the time we had all bashed up to The Rannoch wall. Phil, Sue and Jackie started the day on a very traditional Agags Groove, while John and Dennis enjoyed the neat first pitch and “out there” upper pitches of Grooved Arete. The youngsters, Tony and Dave, in spite of setting off first, arrived last (maybe they were tired after their rush to “The Kingie” the night before?) and headed for Wortleberry Wall, a fine looking expedition.

After lunch Jackie joined John and Dennis on Shackle Route, on North Buttress, for some tricky moves lower down and a stunning 30m top pitch up a steep wall on superb jugs. The descent of North Buttress proved to be almost as taxing as the route.

Dave and Tony knocked off Satan's Slit, then ended the day on Grooved arête. Meanwhile Phil and Sue did January Jigsaw and were then spotted heading for the bottom of Shackle Route.

On the way down John spotted Sue about half way up the top pitch so estimated they would be about an hour and a half behind us getting down….it was not to be!

Arriving back at the hut at 6.30 we all showered and changed then Dave Greenwood, who had had a pleasant day walking around The other Buchaille and then up to Rannoch wall, started heating through the lasagne for dinner….still no sign of Phil and Sue. Salad prepared, lasagne hot, and crumble heating up (thanks Jackie) a couple of trips were made up the track to try and spot the miscreants. At 8.30 the decision was taken to eat…. before panicking and calling out the mountain rescue.

An hour later, a now rather worried John set off up the track again with a torch, happily meeting P & S slowly feeling their way down with only the benefit of star light. Having climbed in sacks, the scramble to the top of the hill had taken much longer than expected and they were only half way down the corrie when the night caught up with them, and neither had a light….but all was well and they were more than ready for the good meal the rest of us had already enjoyed.

Sunday morning was not quite as promising, with gradually worsening mizzle so plans were amended to go round to Polldubh….a great idea quickly cancelled as the first person braving the great outdoors was instantly devoured by midges!

So, having packed and tidied the hut, Tony and Dave headed home to the fleshpots of Carlisle while the rest of us headed down to Loch Tay for a quick bash up Ben Lawers. Starting from the welcoming….not….NTS information centre we took the very pleasant and easy route up through the nature reserve and under Beinn Garbh to the col and then steeply up to the top of Lawers. The cloud parted once or twice on the way up giving very atmospheric views of remote looking glens and on the top we found ourselves at about cloud top level, looking down on a sea of white pillows, punctuated by the occasional mountain top.

During lunch the clouds parted again giving great views down to Lochan Na Cat, greatly enjoyed and photographed by all our fellow “Munroists”. As a point of interest it was great to see a large group of late teens, early twenties (probably students) up there and clearly enjoying the day….a bit of a rare event nowadays, at least in England. Also of note was a lone walker…even older than Dennis…..just.

A steep decent back to the col was followed by a pleasant ridge walk along to and over Beinn Garbh and back down a well-engineered path to the nature reserve and the cars. As a recommendation it would be preferable to do this route in reverse, the path up Garbh being a bit tough on old knees in decent, whilst the long slow decent from the col would be a relaxing end to a great, two Munro, day out.

Special thanks must go to Dave for an excellent Lasagne and Jackie for an equally good crumble on Saturday night, maybe Phil and Sue will be able to join us next time…..or maybe not, knowing Phil's tendency to squeeze ever last minute out of the day.

Dumfries and Galloway.

Sunday October the 1 st dawned a little iffy, at least down in Penrith but the arrangement had been made to meet at Phil's at 8.45 so it was head north up the motorway into lighter cloud and at least the promise of some sunshine. By 9 Sue, Dennis, John and Phil were all present and set off for Clifton, as Dennis tantalisingly described it “..rock like The Chamonix Aiguilles..”.

John teamed up with Dennis and Phil with Sue to start our day on Hollowstones Buttress, taking turns on Jeune Ecole and Sidekick, then Phil took the classic of the crag, Dirl Chimney while John lead the enjoyable Gramercy. A shower now provided a useful dinner break before a wet struggle to the Main wall where J&D did Muckle Knob and Phil lead a direct variant to Pegasus.

Another, heavier shower now forced a retreat to the fleshpots of Dalbeattie where Dennis was sure we would find a café, lucky for Den' he was right. On the way home we were treated to some truly Caribbean rainfall, so our decision to bale out was well justified. However a good day was had by all and the crag will get another visit.

October Meets

Sunday October 15 th , Lakes meet, contact John Holden, 0777 629 6120 if you're not away clipping bolts in sunny Spain.

Sunday October 29 th , Sue and Dave's “walking meet” is likely to see a return to Dumfries if the weather is fine, so please contact them on 01228 596912 to check the venue nearer the day.

Keep on Rockin'

John Holden

Meets Secretary